Ingredients You Want

〉Learn more about antioxidants, lipids and peptides

1) Antioxidants

1.1 Vitamin A (retinol and retinoid) 

  • Boost collagen production
  • Effectively reduce fine lines and wrinkles
  • Fade dark spots
  • Improve skin texture
  • premature aging prevention

Collagen production boosters. The most effective antioxidant to address serious sign of aging. Backed by science. Great for wrinkle prevention. Also the most effective at significantly diminishing wrinkles. For that, you need between 3 to 6 months of consistent use. While many over-the-counter products containing retinol exist, you will need to get the prescription grade Retinoid products. Just ask your doctor for a prescription of Retinoid cream and go get it at your local pharmacy. 

You have 2 main options when it comes to vitamin A :

  • Retinol: This is what you find in over the counter skin care products. It’s far less active or potent than a retinoid. Maximum of 0,1% concentration. 
  • Retinoid: This what you find in creams obtained with a prescription. Noticeably more active/potent than OTC retinol, even if at the same concentration level.  (Renova, Avage, or Differin). Maximum of 2% concentration.

Concentrations / Strengths :

  • 0,01 to 0,04% : Low
  • 0,04 to 1% : Moderate
  • 1% to 2% : Strong

For visible results, you would need at least 0,04%. But the stronger, the more irritating. Do not start with a higher concentration than 0,04%.  It takes a certain time for your skin to get used to Retinoid. You will need to start slowly before eventually being able to put it on every day. In fact, this product will cause you skin peeling and redness at some point. But don’t give up. It means the product is working.

1.2 Vitamin B3 (niacinamide)

  • Improve tone of skin
  • Improve the texture of skin (pores)
  • Reduce hyperpigmentation
  • Reduce redness
  • premature aging prevention

Usually referred to as Niacinamide in skincare, it’s a commonly used antioxidants, added in many products. Not as spectacular as vitamin C for skin tone, but it’s ability to calm redness, while improving the texture of skin and look of pores, make it a must-have ingredient. Beneficial to all. If you have sensitive skin, prone to redness, you MUST try this out.

Product example:

The ordinary niacinamide 10%The Ordinary – Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

High strength formulation.

Available at TheOrdinary (6$)

niacinamide booster paula's choice

Paula’s choice – 10% Niacinamide booster 

High strength formulation.

Available @Paulaschoice.com  (42$)

1.3 Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)

  • Get a healthy glow
  • Even tone, diminish dark spots
  • Diminish fine lines, prevent new wrinkles
  • Protect against pollutants
  • premature aging prevention

One of the most researched skincare ingredients with vitamin A. Proven to be an effective anti-aging ingredient for skin when applied topically. It will also help with the tone of your skin, giving it a healthy glow. You might be amazed. With long-term usage, it can also help to fade away dark spots. Only downside: It can be irritating for sensitive skin. A light stinging sensation can be felt when applied, no worries, it will fade.

Make sure the products you use contain pure vitamin C, instead of a derivative, for maximal effectiveness. That is ascorbic acid. Also, the product needs to have a low ph level (less than 4) to ensure effectiveness. Vitamin C only works at a low PH level. This is why, you should apply it first after cleansing  (or after low ph toner), and then wait 10 to 15 mins for full absorption before applying other products. Finally, combining it with vitamin E and ferulic acid boost’s its effectiveness.

Product example:

Drunk Elephant – C-Firma Day SerumC Firma Day serum Drunk Elephant

15% l-ascorbic acid + Vit E and ferulic acid

Available at Sephora (100$)

Paula’s Choice – Resist C 15 Super Boostervitamin c serum paula's choice

15 % Ascorbic acid + ferulic acid and vitamin E

Available at Paulaschoice (50$)

1.4 Resveratrol

  • Protect skin from pollutants
  • Reduce skin redness
  • premature aging prevention

This is an antioxidant found in red grapes and wine. Recently introduced in skincare, it seems like resveratrol is here to stay. Effective skin antioxidant that also has skin soothing properties. Nice to combine with vitamin C.

caudalie resveratrolClaudalie – Reserveratrol Lift Firming Serum

Available at Sephora (94$)

 

Resveratol The OrdinaryThe Ordinary – Resveratrol 3% + ferulic acid 3%

Available at The Ordinary (8$)

 

 

2) Lipids: Nourish & reinforce your skin barrier

2.1 Ceramides

  • Increase skin hydration level and the skins ability to retain moisture
  • Restore/fortify the skins natural barrier
  • Treat dryness, irritation or redness

Ceramides (along with fatty acids and cholesterol) are a type of lipid that naturally compose the top layer of our skin. Ceramides act like mortar would in a brick wall, meaning they help hold the skin together. By doing so, this type of lipid allows the skin to form an effective protective barrier limiting moisture loss. But your skin’s natural barrier might be damaged. Also, once you’ve reached 30 years old, the production of ceramides significantly reduces. In these cases, ceramides will greatly help you to repair or maintain the skins natural barrier, for a skin looking and feeling healthy.

Ceramidin cream.jpg

Dr. Jart + – Ceramidin cream

Available at Sephora (60$)

 

honey ceramide cream

COSRX – Honey Ceramide Full Moisture Cream

Rich, skin repairing cream. Great for bedtime.

Available at Amazon or Sokoglam (25$)

2.2 Omega Fatty Acids (Essential Fatty Acids)

  • Increase skin hydration level and the skins ability to retain moisture
  • Restore/fortify the skins natural barrier
  • Treat dryness, irritation or redness
  • Nourish the skin with antioxidants

Omega fatty acids are another type of lipid composing our natural skin barrier, along with ceramides and cholesterol. All essential fatty acids have in common the fact that they cannot be produced by the body itself. Adding them to your skincare is a great way to effectively nourish the skin, enabling the regeneration of healthy skin cells and the strengthening of its protective barrier

3 types of omega fatty acids helpful to the skin:

  • Omega 3 (Alpha-linolenic acid)
  • Omega 6 (Linoleic acid)
  • Omega 9 (Oleic acid)

In my opinion, the most effective but also affordable way to deliver essential fatty acids to your skin (along with your diet) is to buy 100% pure organic cold pressed carrier oils at your local health store. On top of omega fatty acids, facial oils provide antioxidants to the skin. Add a few drops of your favorite oil to your moisturizer at night to create an ideal sleeping mask. 

Popular facial oils: Argan oil, jojoba oil, marula oil and rosehip oil (there’s a lot more!)Each has its own characteristics, look it up.

Rosehip oil is one of the most celebrated and documented facial oil for anti-aging

 

3) Peptides: Stimulate your skin

  • Stimulate the production of collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin
  • Diminish fine lines
  • Firm the skin / Maintain firmness
  • premature aging prevention

Different types of peptides are naturally found in our skin, with a variety of uses. Just like proteins, peptides are made of amino acids, but when applied to the skin they can’t fully penetrate our skin barrier. So, what is their use? Peptides act as cell-communicating ingredients. In fact, our cells communicate between themselves using different peptides to signal different situations. For example, when the skin’s collagen breaks down, specific peptides are released in order to inform the rest of your body that it needs more collagen. This makes them a very interesting and promising anti-aging ingredient to add in skincare. You now have a way to kindly ask your body to boost its collagen production thanks to signal peptides. Time to communicate with your body.

Matrixyl The Ordinary peptide.jpg

The Ordinary Matrixyl 10% + HA

Highly concentrated peptide formulation

Available at Deciem.com (11,50$)

 

protini-polypeptide-cream

Drunk Elephant – Protini Polypeptide cream

Contains 9 different peptides

Available at Sephora (84$)

 

〉 Other interesting natural skincare ingredients (to be detailed):
  • fermented extracts
  • Lactobacillus Ferment
  • Honey
  • Snail mucin
  • Bee venom
  • licorice extract

 

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