1. Antioxidants :
1.1 Vitamin A (retinol and retinoid)
- Boost collagen production
- Effectively reduce fine lines and wrinkles
- Fade dark spots
- Improve skin texture
- Aging prevention
Collagen production boosters. The most effective antioxydant to address serious sign of aging. Backed by science. Great for wrinkle prevention. Also the most effective at significantly diminishing wrinkles. For that you need between 3 to 6 months of consistent use. For serious results you would also need to get the prescribed Retinoid products.
You have 2 main options when it comes to vitamin A :
- Retinol: This is what you find in over the counter skincare products. It’s far less active or potent than retinoid. Maximum of 0,1% concentration.
- Reinoid: This what you find in creams obtained with a prescription. Noticeably more active/potent than OTC retinol, even if at the same concentration level. (Renova, Avage, or Differin). Maximum of of 2% concentration.
Concentrations / Stregnths :
- 0,01 to 0,04% : Low
- 0,04 to 1% : Moderate
- 1% to 2% : Strong
For visible results you would need at least 0,04%. But the stronger, the more irritating. Do not start with a higher concentration. It takes a certain time for your skin to get used to Retinoid. You will need to start slowly before eventually being able to put it on everyday. In fact, this product will cause you skin peeling and redness at some point. But don’t give up. It means the product is working.
1.2 Vitamin B3 (niacinamide)
- Improve tone of skin
- Improve texture of skin (pores)
- Reduce hyperpigmentation
- Aging prevention
Usually referred to as Niacinamide in skincare, it’s a commonly used antioxydants, added in many products. Not as spectacular as vitamin C for skin tone, but it’s ability to work on texture of skin and to reduce the size of pores make it an interesting ingredient to include.
The Ordinary – Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
High strength formulation.
1.3 Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)
- Get a healthy glow
- Even tone, diminish darkspots
- Diminish fine lines, prevent new wrinkles
- Protect against pollutants
- Aging prevention
One of the most researched skincare ingredients with vitamin A. Proven to be an effective anti aging ingredient for skin when applied topically. It will also help with the tone of your skin, giving it a healthy glow. You might be amazed. With long term usage it can also help to fade away darkspots.
Make sure the products you use contain pure vitamin C, instead of a derivative, for maximal effectiveness. That is ascorbic acid. Also the product needs to have a low ph level (less than 4) to ensure effectiveness. Vitamin C only works at a low PH level. This is why, you should apply it first after cleansing (or after low ph toner), and then wait 15 mins for full absorption before applying other products. Finally, combining it with vitamin E and ferulic acid boost’s its effectiveness.
Drunk Elephant – C-Firma Day Serum
15% l-ascorbic acid
+ vit E and ferulic acid
Available at Sephora (100$)
Paula’S Choice – Resist C 15 Super Booster
15 % Ascorbic acid
+ ferulic acid and vitamin E
Available at Paulaschoice (50$)
- Protect skin from pollutants
- Reduce skin redness
- Anti aging prevention
Antioxydants found in red grapes and wine. Recently introduced in skincare, it seems like reservetarol is here to stay. Effective skin antioxydant that also has soothing properties.
Claudalie – Reserveratrol Lift Firming Serum
Available at Sephora (94$)
The Ordinary – Resveratrol 3% + ferulic acid 3%
2. Ceramides : repair your skin barrier
- Increase skin hydration level and its ability to retain moisture
- Restore / fortify the skins natural barrier
- Reduce dryness, irritation or redness
Ceramides (a form of lipids) naturally constitute about 50% of your top layer skin. They act like mortar would in a brick wall, meaning they help hold skin together. Doing so, they allow the skin to form an effective protective barrier limiting moisture loss. But your skin’s natural barrier might be damaged. Also, once you’ve reach 30 years old, the production of ceramides significantly reduces. In these cases, ceramids will help you to repair or maintain your skins natural barrier.
Dr. Jart + – Ceramidin cream
Available at Sephora (60$)
COSRX – Honey Ceramide Full Moisture Cream
Rich, skin repairing cream. Great for bedtime.
Available at Amazon or Sokoglam (25$)
3. Peptides : stimulate your skin
- Stimulate the production of collagen, hyaluronic acid and elelastin
- Diminish fine lines
- Firm the skin / Maintain firmness
- Aging prevention
Various peptides are naturally found in your skin. Just like proteins, they are made of amino acids, but they can’t be fully absorbed by your skin. Their use? They act as cell-communicating ingredients. Yep cells communicate through various signals). For example, when your skins collagen breaks down, specific peptides are released in order to signal your body it needs more collagen. So, peptides are signals your skin naturally releases to ask for more collagen. This makes them a very interesting and promising anti-aging ingredient to add in skincare. Just ask your body to boost its collagen production with peptides.
The Ordinary Matrixyl 10% + HA
Highly concentrated peptide formulation
Avaialble at Deciem.com (11,50$)
Drunk Elephant – Protini Polypeptide cream
Contains 9 different peptides
Available at Sephora (84$)
〉 Other interesting and promising natural extracts (to be continued)
- fermented extracts
- Lactobacillus Ferment
- Snail mucin
- Bee venom
- licorice extract